Q: How do I select fresh figs?

A: Figs are usually about 2 inches wide, oval with a protruding stem. They are delicate, bruising easily, and are in season in mid- to late summer through the early fall.

No matter what color the fig is on the outside, the flesh is dark pink and filled with tiny, edible, crunchy seeds. Purchase firm, un-bruised fruit with the stems intact. Ripe figs produce clear, sticky syrup from the blossom end. If you have several figs, check the bottoms before eating and be patient for the syrup to show. Otherwise, the fig won't be as sweet.

Figs are marvelous eaten out of hand. The peels are edible, but wash them. Still, some people prefer to peel figs. Figs are also wonderful with a salty counterpoint, such as cured meat or blue cheeses. They are excellent in savory dishes, used instead of cherries for duck or tossed in salads. Figs also make a delicate flavoring for custards.

Dried figs can be used to fill cookies (no Sicilian Christmas is complete without them), cut into fruitcake or stuffed with almonds or walnuts and eaten as a light dessert or snack.

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